Saturday, July 26, 2014

Oh yeah, life decisions 'n' such.

Future tripping is... all sorts of contradictory things.  It can be useful yet so debilitating.

Even though the future is never what we imagine it to be, we still need to plan ahead in order to cut some sort of reality out of fantasy.  This means having several paths to consider (Two roads diverged in a yellow woo—Okay, we get it already) yet ultimately we choose a path that begets an unimaginable reality.

But at what point do all those possibilities amount to a logical decision?  I've said before I can't go wrong, but even feeling like an utter failure is a possibility.  Something is always sacrificed.  (You're tearing me apart, Lisa!)

Some possibilities and pipe dreams are easily discarded, but sometimes you'll arrive at a few that are equally appealing.  The sorts that make you want to split into halves or thirds.  And I am yet again at one of these divergences.


So here's my status update.  I can choose between the following:

1.  Go home in early September.
2.  Find a job in New Zealand for up to a year (or anywhere, really).
3.  ???
4.  Profit.

So while I have the comfort of home potentially right around the corner, I have to consider if that's really a good life decision.  The notion is tempting.  Friends, good beer, rock climbing, bumming off my parents.  What's more, in September my parents are moving to a new house in Hollister and my sister wants me to come back and be roommates once again—something we've also pipe-dreamed about tirelessly.

But if I come home and Peace Corps falls through, I believe I would be remiss for not taking full advantage of my current geographic position.  What better way to extend my travels than to work abroad (short of robbing a bank and spending the rest of my life on the run).

So I've submitted my work visa application to the New Zealand Immigration Office.  And after shelling out $100 dollars to prove to them I won't be sneaking tuberculosis into their country (no pulmonary intrusion detected), I'm already feeling somewhat committed to seeing it through (and earning back those precious 'Murican dollars).

I keep imagining what either possibility might look like.  Part of me is so ready to come home, hug my friends and family, make the usual rounds to my favorite places, and so on.  But I wonder how long that pleasure might last.  It would certainly meet my short term desires, but I also worry I'll slip into a state of indifference.  As alluring as those comforts are, the other part of me is curious about carving out a niche in an entirely new place, throwing myself into a new line of work, and just seeing what might happen.

In either case I can't really know, but that doesn't keep my brain from constantly pondering it.  What's going to happen?!  Well, it can't hurt to give it a try.

Let me in, New Zealand!  Pretty please with a cherry on top.

Well.

I could write about Vang Vieng.  I could write about Vientiane.  All of these places.  They're great to see, to stay a while in, to make friends in, to leave.

But my mind just isn't there right now.  The chronological order sometimes feels like a mandate, but of course I'm not bound to anything.  Just whatever is interesting.  I'd give George R R Martin shit for blogging about the NFL when he has to tie up some loose ends in Westeros, but screw that noise.  He can do whatever he pleases.

I can imagine the sort of determined work ethic you must develop as a professional writer.  To be able to tell your brain to shut up about all of those other things and focus on the story at hand.  How much control can one really have over their mind?  Thoughts enter unbidden, surely altering the result of one's writing in innumerable, unknowable ways.  Yet people still do it.  They write hundreds or thousands of pages about a relatively tiny area of interest.  A handful of characters (or fistfuls, Mister Martin), some places, and other basic pieces—but the threads come together in a cohesive story.  Even the most outlandish motley of narrators can somehow paint a picture of some particular reality.



My problem is that I have trouble returning to those threads, to give them proper attention they need to take shape.  Any writing I do is divided by the daily happenings of travel.  My mind goes here and there, and some things are abandoned altogether before I begin on something else.

Additionally, I invest my energy in this blog.  An undignified word—blogging—for what I'd like to accomplish someday, but nonetheless a blog is an appropriate place for such a chaotic nebula of thinking.  One consolation is that I know, somewhere in this mess of a mind there are things worth telling.  I just remind myself to write liberally, and when I'm done with one piece at a time I can judge it as worthy or not.

But going back to order and cohesion, I find that my attention wanders to other, irrelevant threads.  How many stories am I trying to write at once?  How he hell do you even finish a story?  I know that the conceptual arrangement is where the fun is at, but I'm so indecisive about whether the figurative frame should be hung in the dining room or the bathroom (where most of my ideas end up going).  It's difficult to decide when to shitcan an idea or instead... to pursue it.  To build it up.  And the further I go along, the trickier it gets to see if the foundation is still holding.  Currently its just based on gut feelings, poorly developed intuition and inklings of what might be total shit.

But that's what I've got to work with.  I must remind myself, anyway, that the process can always be put in simpler terms.  Read and write rigorously, and the reward will come.

Stephen King touched on this in far more eloquent terms in his memoir On Writing.  His take is about developing that steeled work ethic.  To constantly be reading and engaging.  To write at least a thousand words per day.  It's no easy task, hence why not everybody writes books.  He has plenty of useful advice, but I can't help but catch an undertone of "Good fucking luck" in the nicest way possible.  It's not a cake walk at all, but if you're going to do it—go in full tilt.

So, King paints a daunting picture of what it's like to be a professional writer, but maybe the problem is that we think we need to do everything in a professional capacity—for money, namely.  It's true that not everybody's work will come to bear fruit on the money tree, but that's also sort of liberating to think about.  Well, if I'm not doing this to sustain a living or my kids or the things I enjoy doing, then I might as well be doing it solely for the pleasure.  And writing is a pretty inexpensive hobby to get into.  It may be time consuming, but unlike most stories, this one only ends when you do.  Writing as an act, a mode of creation, can produce more than just novels.

Murakami, too, has some pretty fascinating insights on the subject.  He expresses similar views to King, but one point that works in tandem with writing being a liberation rather than a burden is the idea of readership.  Murakami says that if one in ten people enjoys a book he writes, he's satisifed with the result—the gist being that you can't please everybody, so don't set the bar so high for yourself.  You shouldn't enslave yourself to the expectations of others.  Set your own expectations and go from there.

Write something that makes you satisfied.  And if you choose to share it someday, you might find that people tune in to it.

Speaking of Murakami, I don't know of many authors who run marathons and write books, but the parallels are astounding yet simple.  You've probably already considered the obvious ones in between these sentences, but it's pretty cool to play with the ideology behind physical effort and creative effort—both of which are mentally taxing to the extreme.  In case you're curious, check out his aptly titled memoir What I Talk About When I Talk About Running.

We cling to our idols, but also consider that they're just figuring it out as they go along.

In that sense, I can find solace in the act of writing alone.  I certainly feel better now.  Hopefully you do, too.

Departure from Vietnam (and reality, if you're lucky).

After several nights in Hanoi, Nicole and I initiate the next phase of our trip.  This involves parting ways with our motorcycles before heading into Laos.

Hanoi served as a nice place to recharge our batteries and process the last few weeks of constant movement.  I remember my friend Justin pointing out that constant change is an oxymoron, yet somehow it makes perfect sense after living it for a few weeks.  At times, life seems to accelerate dramatically.  Other times it feels still.  It's always fluctuating, this perception of time.

Our time in Hanoi was a nice reminder to take a few breaths before jumping out into the shuffle again.  We didn't take much interest in exploring Hanoi itself—perhaps a result of over-saturation.  It was a relief to be able to make some new friends in our dorm and also make use of the computers to upload all those countless gigabytes of trip footage.  (Admittedly I've hardly touched my GoPro since Vietnam, and at the time of writing this we're already on our way back to Bangkok.)


I was simultaneously exhausted and elated about our journey, but the scales tipped to pure bliss when I met a trio setting off by bike for the reverse route we came in on.  They enabled me to geek out considerably, retelling stories and highlights and all that junk.  It let me relive some of that initial excitement that was to become reality for a few weeks.  It cemented the feeling of accomplishment, and makes any future challenges seem less daunting.  Even being frustrated and tired and lost will eventually become fun, perhaps moreso in retrospect.  But in knowing that and knowing your own behavior, the gap between retrospection and presence diminishes considerably.  Challenge is the salsa to any experience.  It just wouldn't be as satisfying without it.

Getting rid of our bikes was a bit of a pain in the ass, however.  I was hoping to pass them along to fellow backpackers, but due to lack of interest or just poor timing we were consigned to sell them to a mechanic.  They gave us next to nothing for them—but considering we paid approximately next to nothing for two motorbikes in the first place, this wasn't such a sour deal.  Also, the day of the trade I could not even get my bike to run after sitting idle for those few days.  I spent fifteen minutes turning the motor but even bump starting wouldn't muster more than a fart out of the thing.  I did say some passing comment about my bike being due for a breakdown (considering our luck throughout the trip), so we cut our losses and trimmed about 100kg of fat from our payload.  Well, more like 100kg of muscle.  The bikes did all the work, after all.  As much as we grew to depend on them, being unburdened again was a palpable relief.

With our last bit of dong (teehee) we purchased our bus tickets to Luang Prabang, Laos.  The estimated travel time of this leg was reportedly anywhere between 24 and 30 hours.  It's not exactly fun to imagine being stuck in a reclining position for such a duration, so dosing up on over the counter sleep aids seemed like the next logical thought.

The taxi ride to the bus station itself is pretty cozy.  We cram 9 people into a small van (with all of our bags) and make some new friends by force of sheer proximity.  As the driver was practically packing us in by slamming the door on one poor girl, we all had no idea how to react except by joking about the absurdity of the arrangement.  This is just one of those things that would not fly in America.  Personal space?  The hell is that?

The last time I was on a sleeping bus I didn't quite fit in the reclining seats, making for a long night.  This bus, however, was rather spacious.  The six of us (counting our new friends) spread out in the back of the bus, carving out our own little niches for the next day.  Nicole builds a blanket fort and we all get cozy, wondering how long our luck will run before the aisles are overflowing with people.

The direct route to Luang Prabang is about 750 kilometers, but this bus is anything but direct.  I suppose it might have something to do with the roads, but we head south for several hours before even heading in the general direction of Laos.  It doesn't really matter though.  The bus stops frequently to pick up more passengers and cargo, but onward we go.

Sleep comes easily, and we spend all day in our little tilted caves.  As the bus fills up, Penny invites me to sit next to her and we spend several hours exchanging music recommendations.  We trade iPods for a bit before eventually just listening out of one device.

At some point we take afternoon snoozes to the soundtrack of Cloud Atlas.  A beautiful score, but funny enough doesn't evoke memories from the film (which I don't remember) or even the novel (which I adore, but remains isolated in my mind from any musical accompaniment).  It actually takes me back to a picture-book titled The Arrival by Shaun Tan.  This story is a magically surreal take on immigration.  It's about people forced to flea their homes due to rising tides of evil.  It surely has its parallels to our world history, but without anything explicitly stated it drives home the fact: this is nothing new.  Without any words or even violent depictions, the images symbolically capture and convey some rather meaningful hardships.  As a reader it even manages to take you there as the subject arrives in a strange new place full of alien customs and language.  After months on that transoceanic cargo ship, a pastiche of the days pass by in the form of crepuscular cloudscapes.  It's one thing to say that the days passed slowly, but rather poignant to show it in this way.  Each little tile is just another day, a drop in the bucket.  But in that there is a beautifully expressed apprehension and excitement.  Imagining the countless hours of watching the sky, waiting for a destination to appear on the horizon.

Of course we're not in the same dire circumstance, but I indulge in the reverie for a while, staring at the limestone mountains and the shape they take with the skyline.  I didn't expect a long bus journey to be so pleasant.  I am one lucky human.

Snapping out of that daydream, we arrive in Luang Prabang late at night and find some food before checking into a 3 dollar hostel.  You get what you pay for, but all we need is a bed, pillow, and shower.

Nicole and I wake up early (our new norm since Vietnam) and begin our usual foraging for food, this time in a nenew country.  Luang Prabang is, once again, an easy-going little town.  Nestled along the Mekong river, its scenic location seems to be a pretty compelling reason to stay a while.  We wander around and change some money.  We've given up our dong for kip, and I'm happy they don't use coins in this country.

By the time we get back, our other friends have checked out and are ready to move on to a different city.  Despite their invitation, that sort of breakneck speed is not ideal for me.  I'm definitely not eager to hop on another bus.

Instead, Nicole and I rent a scooter and she drives us out to the Kuang Si waterfalls.  A little half day trip sounds like a nice way to get acquainted with LPG, and the roads make for a fun and scenic ride.  The waterfalls were quite a spectacular sight.  We change into our swimwear and dip into the pools below; tiny fish nibble away at our feet as a slight rain comes down.  It's overwhelmingly idyllic, and we explore the area around the falls with ear-to-ear grins, exchanging the frequent "Dude" and half mumbled words that trail off into more beautiful distraction.

This place gets my stamp of approval.  Whatever that's worth.

We spend four nights in LPG doing nothing much besides walking around and taking it in.  We cross the river to find that the villages are markedly different.  Looking back across at the quaint French architecture is a humbling contrast as we walk down muddy streets bustling with waterfowl.  Life on this side of the Mekong is much simpler.  We wander through the trails looking for a trail to take us up into the mountains but somehow end up back at the beginning.  Not quite the hike we expected, but we are always hungry enough to just give up and find some food!

I like this place.  Ample fruit smoothies abound, tofu sandwiches, Indian food.  The Lao people are chilled out, not paying us much mind or being aggressive.  It's all pretty harmonious, even in lieu of the dense flow of tourists.  I commit a day to my solo meandering and trade smiles with the locals.  A kid riding his bike swings to my side of the street for a high five.  Another pair of tourists free a goat which got its antlers stuck in a concrete wall.  A woman walks briskly beside me and we keep a fast pace before parting for home.  I'm a happy little wanderer.  Nothing outstanding needs to happen today; I'm content as it is.  See and think.  Rinse, repeat.

This is the sort of day-in, day-out that centers me.  Much preferred over the nine-to-five sort of grind.  Am I ever going to come home?

Up next, we take a bus to yet another riverside town: Vang Vieng.

Inside the Pak Ou Caves.
Cruising along the Mekong.

Fruit shake and baguette extravaganza.

The bamboo bridge disassembled for the rainy season.

Whatever eats these leaves is quite tidy about it!


Standard issue Beerlao.  "It's cold enough" is about the nicest thing I can muster.

Saturday, July 12, 2014

Ebb and flow. The love and hate of travel.

What a trip (thus far), I can say literally and figuratively.  I don't exactly have anything new to say about travelling that I haven't already expressed, but I always hope to find some nuance if I dig a little deeper.  My last slew of entries about our road trip defaulted to a bland reporting sort of style (look at these stupid photos), but I feel like I missed out on some deeper mind nuggets that were just too difficult to appreciate after hours and weeks of riding, day in and day out.

The constant fluctuation of my mood largely dictates how I feel about this whole experience (the experience being moving away from home with no concrete destination or goal other than to explore).  As I've mentioned before, in bouts of nostalgia the days and weeks can feel so long.  The happy, comforting memories of home seem distant, residing on the fringes of my mind where they are hard to recall clearly.  What is easy to recall, however, is a sort of delusion that my "previous" mode of existence was all gumdrops and cuddly puppies.  This nostalgia feeds strange thoughts that, when distilled, sound like "Travel isn't for me" or "I'm not cut out for this."  Surely I had a different set of challenges while living in California, and now I've traded them for new ones.  And one of those challenges is figuring out what the hell I'm doing with my life now.  Who am I?  In a sort of Derek Zoolander voice.

It's hard to realize when these moods sneak up on me, feeding little self-defeating ideas to my conscious mind so stealthily that it just sounds like me.  Of course the difference is sort of moot, but are you defined by the thoughts you have or the actions you perform?  Maybe it's a conceptual problem of identity (a problem that we can think about in myriad ways).  Look at the nature/nurture question, for instance.  You've heard about this in any science class—is it your genetic makeup or your environment that determines your behavior?  It's a very binary question, and we have trouble seeing things differently when we distill such massive, complicated concepts into simple words such as environment.  These terms get thrown around without really getting unpacked and re-examined from time to time.  But I propose we do a little mental maintenance to how we view these things.


So do your good thoughts make you good if you don't have a corresponding way to express them?  Or what about being intensely cynical minded yet remain ostensibly neutral?  In terms of nature and nurture, it's not one or the other—it's the interaction between both.  Yin and yang, win and lose.  You can't have one without the other (if a certain sitcom theme song popped into your head you're not alone, my friend).  But are do even thoughts and actions completely encompass the totality of who we are?  This was just a starting point, but I already think the binary is too simplistic to effectively describe us as humans.

And I feel the need to make a note, it isn't my intention to inflate our already bolstering ego.  We surely have intelligence in many ways, but I could come up with a litany of things that might illuminate some serious dysfunction as a species.  The delusion is in thinking that because we're the most intelligent species around that we are above reproach for our actions.  We're doing the best we can, one might say.  Well there's always room for improvement.  And for most of the millionbillionzillion years it took for us to arrive at this point, this improvement was in our genetic fitness.  Or at least that's what we're taught in school.  Without some record of written communication or art we have sort of consigned our ancestors to be in some intellectual black hole.  So much so that any representation of primitive hominids shows them to be somewhat savage (and yet do we, speaking generally, not still have these savage thoughts that stem from fear of other races or sexualities).

But I would even suggest that our improvement as humans can happen on a much shorter time scale.  For instance, our brains haven't changed much at all over the past few thousand, or even million, years—yet cultural development has changed drastically even within the last few hundred years.  Yes, we certainly still have problems to deal with.  But it's pretty clear that the speed with which we can educate mass numbers of people is a pretty powerful feat.  Knowledge can be transmitted so quickly, and even more so with the onset of global communication.  There's a powerful acceleration of connection happening all over the world, and this is vaulting us into new territories that affect the way our brains develop.  Consequently, this is why I suggest we take mental stock frequently.  And what I mean by this is pretty simple.  Read some books about the world, meet new people, understand their feelings and desires, and keep building on those existing philosophies.  For instance, acceptance of homosexuality has increased so drastically within the past few decades.  I think that's a tremendous sign of our plasticity—overcoming previously formed fears that were not grounded in any reality.  It's hard to imagine how those thoughts even would have surfaced in the first place, so much that people's thoughts somehow turned into rules, regulations, and laws that dictate how other people can express themselves.

So in some respect, thoughts that go unchecked can be quite detrimental.  So what's the solution?  And how can we be sure that the policies we create won't have a negative effect somewhere down the line?  I can't say conclusively, but I'll circle back to the simple answer: make an effort to know other people.  And this means making no assumptions.  You will never know another person entirely, not even your wife of seventy years.  The other people on this planet, everyone else but you, will always have some private thoughts that they will never share with you.  They might try, but it's impossible.  You surely have more thoughts per day than you even have words for, let alone time to write or speak them.  It doesn't matter if you think at the speed of light.  Given that we're on separate channels most of the time, it behooves you to take those brief, fleeting moments to reciprocate.  I think of those lonely people I've met who talk incessantly without pause.  I don't mind getting to know you in that way, but if you make no effort to ask a question and incorporate new ideas into that stream of thought, you continue to be a broken record.  It's all about the remix, collaboration.

Digression aside, this could be a compelling reason for needing philosophy as a discipline.  We all have zillions of thoughts swimming around our heads, sometimes in words or songs or images or memories of smiles or clenched teeth.  If you were to plot your brain activity on a graph, one axis being general mood and the other being expectations for the future, you'd quite possibly see a nightmare of zigs and zags.  Well, at least I can say that for myself, and I don't want to assume I know your feelings better than you do.

But what does philosophy do for us?  Why do we even have it as a field of study in college?  Well, it provides some consistent modes of thinking that are often much more practical, for one.  It allows us to explore systems of thoughts without letting other wildcards and variables interfere with what might be a useful way of seeing the world.  This doesn't just happen in one philosopher or one generation, but it is an accumulation of knowledge and *different* perspectives that allows us to craft new, pragmatic ideologies.  Surely as a species we can't expect the same schools of thought to apply 100% to the collective challenges of our generation.  We have to remix and adapt certain bits, but also build new ones.

And they don't come out of the ether.  It starts with you, but as a social creature you're not alone.  This is when I say we all need to hold hands and sing together in song.  Hokey rhetoric aside, I believe there's some truth in this (this being the bullshit I've just spouted at you for the past few minutes without asking you how your day went).  But seriously, I believe we have power over our lifetime to challenge some pretty sneaky, confining thought patterns before they bleed into social systems.  Just as much as I believe in plate tectonics or hydrogen atoms.  I've never seen a hydrogen atom up close and personal, but I believe they exist.  It's certainly hard to measure people's happiness or goodness, but even if it's not quantifiable I think we can at least identify it on an emotional level.  What the hell is a friend, anyway, if not somebody who makes you feel good about yourself, and vice versa?  And when it comes to our progression as a social species, I believe that we are capable of making healthy decisions for our species and our home: this tiny planet Earth.

As our 2012 UCSB Commencement speaker (whose name I've forgotten) said, people usually tell you in these sorts of speeches to go off and live your dreams.  But that would land most of us in jail.  Dreams, and even many of our thoughts, are noisy, obscuring things that can get in the way of, well, reality.  But what sort of reality do you want for yourself?  For each other?  And don't you need to start with some sort of dream?  But this sort of dream isn't the same.  You're making a conscious decision here: you want something to change.  That's what this type of dream is—a realization.  It's thinking of something that currently is not, and the trick is finding the path to bring it into fruition.  And this is happening all the time!  So don't just dream.  Realize!

So what does this have to do with travel?  Well, I can fly halfway across the world and come back just as backwards and benighted as any ignorant fool.  I could also walk the same path from my house to school every morning and learn new things about myself and the world around me.  It really comes down to effort and attention.  In a cynical way, just moving your body to another location doesn't automatically fill you with sagacious thoughts.  The problem is that the mind doesn't always want to open; as plastic as it is, it also grows weary at the thought of confronting new realities—especially when that can potentially shatter the way you see yourself.  That's where all of these hilariously, crazy delusional biases spring up.  It's so much easier to accept some delusion than accept a reality that challenges who you think you are.  In this way our brains can pull a veil over our eyes, feeding us a reality that is not.

Sometimes this is happening on a physiological level.  For instance, when some people experience ocular migraines they may not see an object in front of them, but rather it is filled in by something that resembles the surrounding landscape.  For instance, you might look for the clock on the wall but someone seems to have taken it down—you only see more wall.  This happens when your ocular nerve's blind spot (scotoma) is widened and your brain's visual processing centers have to do their best to fill in what you see in front of you.  So in essence, you're seeing what is not a shared reality.  But you are 100% convinced, at least just from looking, that there is no clock on the wall.

Now that was a sort of medical, physical example, but this sort of conundrum manifests in myriad ways—notably also on a conceptual level (not physiological; though it's important to identify the brain structures responsible for cognition/perception).  I've mentioned cognitive dissonance before—believing two mutually exclusive ideas simultaneously.  And unfortunately confronting these things is not easy, but once you become aware of them you have to make a choice.  You can either change your mind, or convince yourself that what you're thinking about isn't worthy of more attention.  And that's the alarming danger in all of this—that you can just ignore, for fear of confronting yourself, some of the things that are most deserving of your attention.

So whether you fly around the world or consign yourself to one general area for a duration, the important thing is the mentality of accepting new realities.  Realities that involve other people's thoughts, feelings, and wants.  In some way they become part of you.

Friday, July 11, 2014

Vietnam Road Trip Day 15: Completion.

I wake up early and walk through Cam Thuy, scoring some fresh baguette and cheese and yogurt (managed to find one without gelatin).  Kids ride their bikes to school and I see a few familiar faces from the previous evening.  We exchange some hello's and I keep on trucking around town.  I've still been waking up pretty continuously around 5:30 or 6:00am, but I like the calm interlude before the day's calamity.  And I know arriving in Hanoi won't be a stroll through town like this.



I walk out to the field where a few cow-herds are congregating and women are laying out beans to be dried in the sun.  One man, bewildered by my size, makes an effort to lift me up and then guesses my weight by drawing "100kg" in the dirt.  He's just about spot on.

We made it so far the previous day that our last stretch into town is just a measly 150 kilometers.  Looking back at our first day of 80 kilometers, we've come a long way in terms of getting comfortable with the roads and riding through some chaotic traffic at times.  It feels like we're no longer skirting the sidelines of death on a daily basis, but we don't press our luck.  The ride into Hanoi takes about four hours with one brief stop on a stretch of highway I am calling Milk Alley.

Superliminal messaging putting crazed thoughts into our heads!
We drive through this town and see easily at least one hundred or more establishments dedicated to the sale of milk.  Unfortunately for us and our set ways, hardly any of these rest stops refrigerate their milk—warm milk on a hot day, anyone?  Yeah, that's what I thought.  I manage to find *one* place that chills their milk and we stop for a delicious glass-full with, yes, more Oreos for lunch.


The rest of the trip is uneventful, but full of mixed feelings.  This journey was quite an undertaking, and I'm happy that we've almost pulled it off.  I like my little bike, but I'm really looking forward to slowing things down again.  Maybe we'll stick around Hanoi for a while.  We have to spend some time looking for someone to buy our motorcycles, so there's no hurry to split!

Twas quite a trip.

Our luck picking up back on Day 3.






Triumph!
Next stop (eventually):  Laos.  Maybe I'll be able to find some rock climbing if it's not too rainy!

Stats:
Cam Thuy to Hanoi.  153 km.  Total distance covered: 2100km.  I'm over it!

Day 14: Chasing the Tofu Dragon

As I've mentioned, I make it a point to look up some vegetarian restaurants before getting on the bikes for the day.  This usually determines some good stopping points to break up the ride and reinvigorate our bodies.  I see it as positive reinforcement—ride a little, eat a lot of damned tasty food.

Unfortunately the ease of finding chay/kieng meals is coming to an end.  I was warned about the regional difference between South and North, but also there just aren't a lot of cities in between here (where ever we are) and Hanoi.  Our last ditch effort takes us to a city called Vinh where I'm dismayed to find that neither of the two restaurants I found though Google Maps are in there actual location.  Incorrect or outdated information.  Damn.  I also waste a bunch of time trying to find an ATM that doesn't have a ridiculous surcharge.  Trying to save a few bucks costs us some time, but we cut out losses and eat Oreos for breakfast before pressing onward.

At this point we came back to the coast to head to Halong Bay, but the roads are so infuriatingly dusty and trucky that we reconsider our plan.  The roads get more and more complicated and I don't like the idea of having to navigate all the way along the coast again, adding two extra riding days to our trip.  Instead we head back to the DHCM which was treating us so well.


We're happy with our decision and we get to return to that blissful state of absorption.  We get some work done to Nicole's bike (chain tension adjustment) to find that she needs an entirely new drivetrain (sprockets and chain replaced).  This adds an hour or so but we a nice restaurant owner fetches us some tofu and we have a basic but nutritious meal.  All of the restaurant patrons stare as we eat, not entirely certain if we know how to use our chopsticks.  I don't know what it takes to prove to them that we eat Asian food with chopsticks all the time.  Maybe I need to start plucking flies out of the air.  Our cook is an older woman who seems genuinely happy to take care of us.  She fills us up with food and delicious apple juice and even hugs us as we say goodbye.  These small towns are what it's all about, I decide.  The tourist epicenters wear me thin at times, but these little random towns build me back up.  This isn't always the case (meeting Hoa and Sophia in Da Lat), but I feel like I can let my guard down more easily.

We hop back on the bikes and see how far we get before dark, ending up in a small town called Cam Thuy.

Stretch break.  Minus the break part.
Stats:
Hong Linh to Cam Thuy.  229 km.

Day 13: Leaving Paradise

Nicole and I wake up early to ride our motorbikes deeper into the park.  We beat the heat and get to explore some fun, bumpy country roads on our way to the Paradise Cave.



This cave is much bigger, but it is only accessible by land.  This involves many steps going up and down to climb the mountain and then descend into the cave.  We feel cool air blowing and we know we're close.  It's essentially more of the same, and I'm glad we did the Phong Nha cave by river after seeing this one.  There isn't much room to explore the cave away from the wooden walkway, so we're consigned to dodge hundreds of people as we walk inside.  While it is indeed epic, I'd recommend skipping this one and doing Phong Nha Cave by boat only.  We have a nice time chatting with some friendly locals before hopping on our bikes, stuffing tofu and rice fuel into our faces, and heading out of town.  Admittedly the circuit through the park was worth the trip to the cave.  I'd love to keep exploring this area but we want to keep our momentum!


Fortunately the DCM continues to deliver incredible views and consistently radular roads.  We get a bit low on fuel but fortunately don't run out before finding a little gas-stand along the highway.  Onwards!



This little dude didn't seem to bothered by us jamming phones in its face.

O hai, Nature.

These cliffs look stable enough.

Tea break!  I worry our engines have had it up to *here* with us, but they just need to last a few more days.
Along the way we cut back east towards a city called Vinh.  We don't know what else to seek out between here and Hanoi, or if we're even going to ride to Halong Bay.  Our butts and backs will make those decisions for us when the time comes.

Journey stats:
Phong Nha to Hong Linh.  214 km.

Day 12: Phong Nha!

Having finally skirted around a purportedly awful section of highways, we are now ready to head inland and take the Ho Chi Minh trail most of the way to Hanoi.  I wasn't sure what to expect, but we hopped over through Quang Tri to find vast forests and fresh air.  Nicole leads most of the way and sets a killer pace.

Struggling to keep up!


Today was one of the longest stretchest we've gone but we do it in no time at all.  Phong Nha is home to vast limestone mountain ranges covered in dramatic greenery, making for a spectacular sight.

The sign roughly translates to, "This place is hideous—keep moving along!"

We grab a quick lunch and inquire about cave exploration here.  It just so happens there's a boat leaving in 30 minutes.  I'm stoked that we're able to do an activity the same day we covered a relatively huge distance, and a passive boat ride sounds relaxing.  If anything we get to rest while checking out the natural features.

Those sweet, sweet features.
The shoreline along the river bustles with activity as we slowly head toward the Phong Nha cave.

Don't forget to wash behind your ears.
'Cole happy.  River good.
I don't know if I want to climb it or go inside it.  Both?
Walking around inside a mountain.  Other worldly. 
Nature is getting its glitter on.


Welcome to my throne room.

The river extends for eight kilometers.  We didn't go nearly as far.

It's like Cthulhu and a rock monster had a terrifying baby.
 


This cave experience was a delight—pensive and peaceful—aided by the fact that it wasn't very crowded at all (most boats were leaving the caves as we arrived).  As it turns out there are more caves to see!  We decide to wake up early and check them out before continuing up the Ho Chi Minh.

Stats:
Hue to Phong Na.  223km.

Notes:
In retrospect I wish we had taken QL49 west to the DHCM instead of QL9.  Feeling lucky with such nice, open roads!

Day 11: Pressing onward to Hue

After four straight days of riding we fully revel in our Independence Day rest in Hoi An.  Unfortunately these long rides leave me too exhausted to really explore much of the cities we come into.  That's definitely a trade-off, but I like to think it's worth it for the adventure.  Considering how we lucked out on a sweet, comfortable room, we really spend most of our time lazing around before leaving the following day.

Beer and coffee before watching Wimbledon.  Room party!

Day 11.

Today's route wasn't very long, taking us through the city of Da Nang and over a sweet mountain road.  Not much else to it, so photo time!
Da Nang


We arrive to Hue quite early and meet up with Sam and Michael for delicious Indian food.  Our bikes are holding together just fine but we have a place in mind in case we need any work done.

"I got this."
Journey stats:
Hoi An to Hue.  130km.

Route:
Straightforward passage up the mountain and onward to Hue (99% of large automobiles and thoroughfare take the tunnel through the mountain).

Thursday, July 10, 2014

Vietnam Road Trip Day 9: No news is good news?

Day 9. July 3.

The town we ended up from the previous day wasn't very noteworthy and the hotels were overpriced.  It was really just a place to sleep and take stock of our gear.  We're well ahead of schedule so we take some time to get minor repairs to our bikes, too.  They were both running pretty rough but an oil change made mine sing and a new valve cover for Nicole's bike resolved a disconcerting pinging sound.  Hers continued to lurch dramatically as we got going so another mechanic along the way fixed the loose exhaust fitting and tuned the carburetor until it performed satisfactorily.  It's easy to get a second opinion and the bikes usually get a good look over if you take them to a few mechanics.  Everyone notices different things.  These little repairs don't take long and we're getting pretty comfortable with them.  Even trivial issues would feel so much worse just a week ago, but now we know what to expect from Vietnam.

We race up the coast with no detours and arrive in Hoi An with plenty of time to find our friends Sam and Michael (for our third or fourth meeting now?).  They invite us to stay at their little hotel they found and we get a stellar rate on a stellar room.  The four of us have the place to ourselves and we decide this will be an optimal halfway point to change our figurative oil as well.  Rest day, coming up!


Journey stats:
Tam Quan to Hoi An. 196 km.

Vietnam Road Trip Day 8: Same same, but different.

Day 8.

This was a hot day after being back on the coastal route.  The added dust and general ruckus from trucks makes it feel worse than it actually is.  As bad as it feels from time to time, this was probably the fastest we've gone through a truck route.  Also, the backs of my hands are started to develop that leathery texture, yet in between my fingers it looks relatively pale.  I've been wearing long sleeves/pants most days, but I'm selectively working on my sexy sandal tan.

Vietnam is treating me well.
It doesn't take us long until we find some nice detours along highway 1D.  We take our time today to explore.  I had previously scoped out a few potential lunch destinations in Quy Nhon so we let hunger be our driving incentive when necessary.  I can't find the one chay restaurant in mind so we opt for a quick break at a cafe only to see it across the street in a very unassuming little hole in the wall.  Figuratively.
Most cafes serve copious amounts of delicious iced Oolong tea.  The cure-all for long, hot riding days.
We have a kick-ass, cheap lunch and keep moving.  Our next detour comes after crossing the bridge on the Thi Nai bay.




These roads go through a small fishing village until we cross over to QL19B and we discover an enormous yet empty highway.
If you build it...
For fun we head directly to the ocean to take a little break and happen upon a quaint little town built on this peninsula.  I see a statue at the top of the hill and decide I want to find it.


Eventually the passages get too narrow for Nicole and she takes a break to let me continue riding up.  I don't get much farther before deciding to go on foot, but it's not long before I find what looks like a school or monastery or sculpture garden.  I still can't figure out what it is, but the girls who lived there didn't seem put off by random visitors.
Radiant enough for you?

Nicole sharing some trip photos with the new gang.


From the bottom of the hill.

From the top of the hill.

The silver side of the two-tone statue.


Nicole snaps a photo of one of the girls and shows it to her, causing her to run away in adorable embarrassment.  A lot of people don't take off their masks even though it doesn't seem very dusty, so it's hard to gauge their reactions to our behavior.  I don't think we're crossing any stark lines into offensive territory, but one girl's reaction was a clear "don't take a photo of me."  Her eyes smiled nonetheless.

Bashful!  I'm going to accumulate too many adopted kids after this trip is over.
We head back to our route and press on to find more rural areas nestled in between mountains and beautiful blue ocean.  It's photo/video time.





After some time I finally get to use the poncho I acquired in Tuy Hoa after my raincoat failed to keep water off my person.  We don't get drenched and we even manage to outrun this storm after a little while!


As you can see I've been pretty zealous about recording lots of our road trip.  I suppose it's more for myself to look back on.  Endless roads all seem the same when stacked together, but it's really about the accumulation of stories that really paint the picture of Vietnam.  The countless kids who wave and shout Hello!  The cows and water buffalo crossing the road.  The reflection of the sky on the rice fields.  The slow transition of white sand to deep, green forests.  It's another world, but it's on the same planet.  My excitement for seeing the rest of this country continues to grow, but riding a motorcycle down dirty, bumpy roads lends itself to an interesting type of boredom.  You can't quickly sate your impulses by whipping out your phone or listening to music or reading a book.  You can hardly even talk to one another, though traveling with a companion adds tremendously to the whole experience—just silently sharing the ride together.  You might think of something to say but it's too windy or busy to sidle up for a quick "didja see that?!"  So we're just left to be the quiet observers for several hours a day.  Also, we're probably fixated on different details in the same environment.  Looking for unusual patterns or dodging potholes or cows.  I like to imagine it's like being a child again—overstimulated with sensory information to the point of fatigue.  It's hard to understand how we're so hungry all the time when we're not really getting much exercise, but our brains have to be going full throttle in many ways to keep us alive while absorbing the scenery at the same time.

More, please.

Journey stats:
Tuy Hoa to Tam Quan. 192 km (plus detour to Hung Luong).

Route notes:
Worthy detours include TL639/QL19B just northeast out of Quy Nhon, and DT640 just to the north of that peninsula.  (DT640 might be called DT639, but if it has any markers at all you're likely on a road that'll spit you out somewhere different).