Road to Agra

The roads here are quite a thrill.  On Saturday morning we hire a driver to take us to Agra to see the Taj Mahal.  The cost of this trip for us is approximately $75 dollars.  After seeing that the cost of fuel is pretty much on par with prices back in the States, it's a wonder to me that our driver can make a living off of this.  Estimating conservative fuel economy (most of the cars have sub 1.5L engines, making the BMWs on the road equivalent to Hummers), I would say that the 440km round trip costs at least $25 dollars in fuel alone.  Some of the money we paid also goes towards tolls, state fees, and the tourist company commission.  There are several toll roads in this short distance, and we notice a sign that winners of the Indian Gallantry Award need not pay.  Are feed waived for life?  How does one win this award anyway?  Sounds prestigious.

I'd guess that our driver earns about a third of our total payment.  1500 rupees to drive three tourists over a duration of about 11 hours in insane traffic, and even to wait for us while we do our sight seeing in between.  Not only does it take up our entire day, but his as well.  He is modest and reluctant to accept our offer to pay for his lunch.  He never expected a tip at any point, and his respectfulness and patience was admirable beyond measure.  Talk about entitlement!

Rana has been a driver for 25 years.  Despite the calamitous traffic I feel safe in his hands.  It is normal to go within a few inches of other automobiles, rickshaws, people, cows, dogs, and so on.  Essentially most of these interactions would be considered a near-accident in the States.  I should also note that most of the cars, though run down by American standards, have virtually no scratches or dents or anything indicative of unsafe driving.  During the whole trip I only saw a handful of dead animals and one automobile accident.  The ones still alive clearly have excellent spatial awareness.  These dogs dance with death and eat trash daily, yet they would likely outlive me if I were driving in this country.

Being stuck in traffic at home is exhausting even without all of the people and animals, so I really admired Rana's endurance.  Once we left the seemingly boundless Delhi area, I assumed we would be cruising through rural areas at a much more liberating clip.  While we did drive through more agricultural areas and little towns, they are packed full of people.  There is typically only one main road heading through these towns, and they aren't separated by long, desolate stretches like I'm used to back home.  So this is where India's population is.  And by "this" I mean everywhere.

It feels like we'll never make it, but I don't mind.  My brain is alert for the whole drive.  I'm constantly trying to figure out this new form of driving intuition that makes California seem like "easy" mode.  Just as I think I begin to understand the etiquette and practices, some new event will force me to reconsider how it all works.  Perhaps being American makes me inclined to organized systems, and maybe India simply doesn't fit into any concept I could come up with.  The nuances are fascinating nonetheless.  India truly feels like floating through the cardiovascular system, Magic School Bus style.  But this creature we're in doesn't resemble a human, but some alien being with multiple hearts.  It is quite a trip.

I should also mention the Taj Mahal.  That was our destination after all, right?  Not that I wasn't impressed with it.  As Varun said, if you can't appreciate one of the seven wonders of the world then you should probably take a moment to question yourself.

The symmetry of the Taj is remarkable.  I tended to enjoy it more from the adjacent mosque which had very few visitors and ample space.  The Taj seemed to amplify the light from the sun, blinding me with its presence.  Also sweat and sunscreen may have been partially responsible.  It's a beautiful palace, but I found myself drawn to the immense landscape in the background.  How amazing it must be to live and explore along this river with the immense Taj visible for miles.

After being sent down one aorta after another, we are eventually swept back into the veins, depleted of energy after a long day, returning to our little hostel.  I manage to sleep for a bit during the ride despite the incessant honking and excitement.  I guess you get used to it.  There are lots of things about India that I can't imagine getting used to, but resistance is futile.